History of accessories and their evolution in retail
If you don't stop to think, perhaps you don't imagine that, like the clothes, the accessories also played a major role in the world of fashion and retail. They can be maxi, geometric, with mixtures of materials, with retro references or not. What history shows us is that they have always been part of women's everyday life in many different ways and today they contribute to compose a current look and often representing a style.
Its materials are the most varied. There are parts, for example, with manual touches, such as crochet, which makes the look more handmade, reminding of boho in the 1970s. This technique was used, for example, in 2016 in Morana network's products, which shows that trends always come and go, even when it comes to bijoux.
Manually elaborated pieces gained great repercussion in the Renaissance, time when the first craftsmen appeared. But the first brands of high jeweler, born just after the creation of handcrafted parts, only emerged in the 19th century with names like Cartier, Bulgari and Tiffany. The retail and fashion heritage is actually an evolution of history. Some brands continue to work with the concept of jewelry, while others extended to the semi-jewelry market or, more democratically, started to sell bijoux.
As in fashion, accessories also are inspired by cultural and historical movements to dictate trends. The fringes, for example, are not only in bags, skirts or blouses. Many bijoux already carried that element and some brands return to the Autumn Winter 2016 with this detail highlighted. It is the folk style, inspired by the folk music from the likes of Bob Dylan, and that arises on fashion shows.
Democratization of accessories
Coco Chanel was the character of the fashion world which transformed the bijoux in a piece with a jewelry aspect. "She was super-revolutionary at the time and was the first to use pearls as an accessory and not as original part. For the time, it's like Chanel had given the nod to other brands to begin to develop a kind of high jewelry. She mixed pearls with gold necklaces as if deconstructing values", says Astrid Sampaio Façanha, Fashion History professor at Centro Universitário Senac - Santo Amaro. As the jewel had only a symbolic value for Chanel the material was mere detail.
Thus arose in retail new products with bijoux aspect democratizing their use throughout society; and in fashion, new elements to compose the productions. The use of less noble materials remains in vogue. Astrid mentions brands like Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Carolina Herrera that continue making use of semiprecious materials such as old gold and crystals. "They are bijoux, but, because of the brand, they gain status."
Morana, which was born offering jewelry with bijoux aspect to consumers, emerges in the 21st century, in 2002, already within this retail trend, contributing to a democratic consumption of parts whatever the occasion, but mainly for the benefit of its welfare. According to Astrid Sampaio Façanha, Fashion History professor at Centro Universitário Senac – Santo Amaro, today accessories carry an identity and help the consumer to build their "self." "Furthermore, we are in the year of women's empowerment and accessories have this power relationship," she explains.
To better understand this construction, it is worth noting the Sector Study for Retail Commerce of Accessories 2014 conducted by Sebrae, which indicates this consumer behavior. The study revealed that on average 29% of consumers buy accessories every month. Then there are the consumers who buy every two months (25%). The image of the product that best meets their expectations are the basic (39.4%); current (34.3%) are the products that meet the customer's comfort. Another interesting fact is that 48.9% purchase motivated by the feel to gift itself, replacing an old piece or because it lacked something.
They can be jewelry or bijoux. The fact is that accessories make the look authentic and basic and have always been important in the creation of identity. This is exactly what happens today with the fast fashion and contemporary bijoux. The movement to follow trends, that we often observe is not new. He appeared in the Baroque age, but intensified in the early 20th century. "This is a contemporary modern phenomenon, and bijoux follow this dynamic." According to Astrid, if fashion and the changes are faster, jewels and bijoux also reinvent themselves with a higher speed.